It’s a tale as old as time, but we’re here to try something new. You might be thinking Princess Belle cosplays are nothing new, and you’re not wrong. But this isn’t a boring old Belle. Sometimes a cosplay is really just a unique upgrade to a costume that represents a specific experience or moment during the character’s screen time. Using this gorgeous Belle Ultra Prestige Adult Costume as a starting point and pulling inspiration from the Disney’s Beauty and the Beast animated feature of 1991, Yalda Mostajeran crafted a look that is a work of art unto itself.
If you remember, the movie began with a series of jewel-toned stained glass window panels that simply and beautifully told the backstory of how the Beast had been cursed by the Enchantress in disguise. This cosplay isn’t taken from the pages of a fairy tale, it’s a stained glass window come to life.
Watch this clip as a reminder of the artistic style the creators of the prologue chose.
Still from Beauty and the Beast (1991).
We see the final page of the story as told through stained glass in the very last scene of the movie. After we zoom out from Princess Belle and her prince waltzing around the ballroom we see a stained glass window showing the couple under a rose come into view. Belle is now part of the colorful story told through the windows.
- 2 mm EVA foam
- 6 mm EVA foam
- Foam board(s)
- Construction or butcher paper (if painting the background by hand)
- Brown acrylic paint
- 5 mm foam dowels
- Mod podge
- X-acto knife
- Heat gun
- Hot glue
- Mini fake roses
- 6 gauge armature wire
- Wire cutters
- Small cardboard box (a small USPS flat rate box)
- Contact cement
Constructing Stained Glass Belle Cosplay
First measure the width and height you want the background image to be. It’s best to do this in front of a mirror so you can visualize how much space the background will take. It should be wider than your waist and as tall or taller as the distance from your waist to the top of your head depending on how much of the background image you want to be seen. For example, I’m 5’4” and my final image was 24 inches wide and 48 inches tall.
Paint the stained glass image by hand on construction paper or you can do it through photoshop as I did and print it at a place like Staples. Here’s a great tutorial on how to use the pen tool to create line-art as I did.
Make sure your stained glass background has a border that’s at least 0.5 to 1 inch wide. It can be wider but generally not thinner than 0.5 inches because we’ll be attaching foam board to it later on.
Trace the image onto the foam board. If you don’t have foam board big enough to fit your image you can do what I did and use three smaller boards that you’ll later glue together.
Remember that 0.5″ to 1″ border? Make sure to draw that inward from where you traced the outside perimeter of the image. Then cut out the middle.
If you used multiple poster boards, glue the pieces together with hot glue.
Now trace the image again on the 6 mm EVA foam. I decided to make it a little wider than the foam board but you can make it the same exact size if you want. This will be the front of the frame.
Trace the image on the 2 mm EVA foam but do not cut the middle out like you would for the foam board and 6 mm EVA foam. This will serve as the back of the frame.
Next score the 6 mm EVA foam with whatever design you want using a X-acto knife. Scoring foam is when you cut it (but not all the way) and then heat it with a heat gun or hairdryer to create a design. Here is a tutorial that should help.
I also hot glued 5 mm EVA foam dowels to the edge of the 6 mm EVA foam frame. You can also add a border by cutting up leftovers from the 2 mm EVA foam.
Seal your 2 and 6 mm EVA foam pieces by painting them with Mod Podge and letting them dry. You can also spray paint them with Plastidip instead but make sure you’re in a well-ventilated area and wear a spray paint mask.
Paint the front and back foam frames with acrylic paint. I also painted little faux roses to match the frame and glued them on top of the front of the frame.
Measure your waist. Add 5 inches to that number and cut that amount in armature wire. Make sure to use proper armature wire cutting pliers.
Take a small box that can fit behind your back. I used a post office box that was sent to me. Make two holes on each side of the box and string the armature wire through.
Glue the foam board on top of the stained glass image. I used contact cement for this part but you can also use hot glue. Stand in front of a mirror and hold the foam board behind you to estimate where you want to glue the small box.
Tape the box (lightly! you’re going to remove the tape later) to the stained glass image and wrap the armature wire around you. This will help you figure out where you want the box to go.
Mark where you want the box to go on the image.
You can wrap the armature wire around your waist or around your shoulders like a backpack. Any extra armature wire you can cut off or hide in the back.
If you decide to wrap the wire around your waist, I suggest painting the wires yellow to match the dress. I decided to wrap the wires around my shoulders so I painted them black to match the stained glass makeup. I also painted the box brown to match the frame but since the box is hidden behind your back that part is optional.
Take the tape and box off the background image. Hot glue the 2 mm EVA foam back frame to the back of the stained glass image.
Hot glue the 6 mm EVA foam front frame on top of the foam board.
Hot glue the small box where you previously marked it while trying the background on earlier.
Now for the final touches! I used drug store foundation in three shades similar to my skin tone and black theater make-up to draw the stained glass mosaic lines on my face. This make-up tutorial is a great resource to help you out. Complete this Belle look with Costume Supercenter Belle dress.
Voila! You’ve now become a magical stained glass window princess.