This summer, the X-Men came back to theaters to once again save the world, this time from the most powerful mutant of all: Apocalypse. The thousand-year-old harbinger of darkness chose Four Horsemen to help him overtake the world, and one of those powerful beings was Psylocke, a telekinetic and master swordsman capable of cutting through anything with the energy she produces.
To make it easy for you to do it yourself, Costume SuperCenter teamed up with cosplayer Yuffie Bunny to create a step-by-step guide to creating your very own Psylocke cosplay!
This tutorial will walk you through how to make a Psylocke cosplay! While there are many, many ways to go about making this cosplay and many materials and designs, this one is the classic look. It also used Yaya Han’s new 4 way stretch pleather and her body suit pattern. This way, all the materials used are accessible to everyone, and you’ll have an easy pattern to use for construction. Don’t forget to stack those coupons to save a little!
– Four-way stretch purple pleather or PVC in the shade of your choice. (About 3 yards for this cosplay, that includes all the scraps)
– Two- or four-way stretch red spandex, pleather or PVC in the shade of your choice. (Using pleather for the body suit and spandex for the sash is a fun way to add some depth and texture to the cosplay)
– 1 20-22” purple zipper that closely matches your body suit fabric.
– 1 or 2 spools of purple thread
– 1 spool of red thread
– Straight pins
– 1 pair of comfortable pumps in a simple design with a toe shape of your choice
– Black elastic
– Shoe Goo or E600
– Dance tights to match your skin tone
– Tracing or wax paper
– Clay sculpting tool
Go shopping for all your materials. Read the back of the body suit pattern to figure out how much yardage of material you will need. It’s safe to over-buy just in case you make a mistake on something.
Cut out the parts of the body suit pattern that will be used. you can extend the front top panel of the pattern so that you have one solid piece across your chest. You can also keep the rest of the seams broken up, too.
Lay your fabric down with the wrong side facing up. Taking care to follow the directions of the grain in the fabric and the pattern instructions use weights or straight pins to help hold the patterns to the fabric and carefully use chalk to outline them. Remove any weights that obstruct you from cutting and proceed to cut out the pattern pieces.
Now you’re ready to start sewing your body suit together! We highly recommend using a zig-zag stitch on all stretchy fabric you sew with.
Whenever working with stretch fabrics, don’t be afraid to over-pin them down because this helps hold the fabric in place better, especially when you’re working with a stretch pleather or PVC. These materials sometimes will stick to the foot of your sewing machine. (One item to consider is a teflon sewing foot, though over time the non-stick quality of these declines).
So after you get the proper pieces pinned together use the zig-zag stitch to sew them. For most of this pattern you will be sewing with the wrong side facing out, which will make the sewing process pretty easy, as it won’t get stuck to your sewing foot or sewing machine.
Be sure to “test” your pieces as you sew them together. Once you get a seam stitched, stand up and hold it over the part of your body it will cover and pull and stretch it a little. Things won’t fit perfectly at first, but this is a good way to test that your seam is at least holding up under the stress of the pull test. As you start to get more and more pieces stitched together this will become more important to do. Trying on your cosplay as you make it allows you to see that it is starting to fit properly, and allows you a chance to see if you made a mistake in measuring and need to redo a part. It’s much easier to redo one part of a cosplay than the entire thing.
When you are ready to start hemming parts of your cosplay this is when your teflon sewing foot or your tracing or wax paper will come in handy.
You can either lay your paper on one side or sandwich your fabric with it (tearing out all the paper after wards can be a little annoying, but take your time, and you’ll find your seams and hems come out so much nicer this way!
Sandwiching it really helps things move smoothly. Be sure to still lift up the paper and use your fingers to help guide your fabric and make sure you’re still sewing in a straight line where you need to be.
Follow directions and use a zipper foot to now place your 22” zipper down the back. You can choose to either top stitch the zipper after it’s in or not. Toop stitching helps with most zippers, but there isn’t much need to worry about the zipper for this one. Psylocke has very long hair, almost no one will see the back of the cosplay anyway.
Next is the easiest part: The red sash! This was made with very wide (60” bolt) fabric, but only one yards worth. Depending on how wide you want your sash, measure off the width after folding over one edge of your fabric. This allows you to only have to sew 3 sides of the sash, saving you some time and thread. You can iron down all the sides to help give it a crisper edge when you’re all finished sewing, but you’re welcome to cut and stitch all four sides.
Make sure when you’re stitching the last side of your sash to leave a small opening, (usually 2” is more than enough for such thin fabric like spandex). Don’t stitch that last bit, stop and pull your sash through that opening, so you’re hiding all your major seams. Tuck that opening, pin it, and stitch it closed.
Next let’s work on all the leg and arm straps. These are pretty easy too. Measure off each part of your upper arms and thighs that you want the straps to go around and use the same method of making the sash, but with purple pleather.
When it came to the thigh straps though, you can attach them to a pair of dance tights. I’s also a good way to keep things on your legs in place because sometimes no matter how tight you make straps, leg accessories or tops of tight boots, etc., always seem to fall down while walking. Sewing things like Psylocke’s thigh straps to dance tights is a nice way to make sure those babies aren’t going anywhere. This is super delicate work though, and can be stressful, so please go very slowly with these next steps should you choose to follow them. Ask for help even if you’re worried. There are also a few other ways to go about wearing the straps on your thighs that can be found a little further along in this tutorial.
Get those dance tights on and in place! Make sure they’re sitting in a comfortable spot on you, bend, squat, run up and down some steps, you want to make sure that where you pin and eventually sew down these straps is exactly where they should be. After your dance tights are in place, pull the two lower thigh straps on. This is where you might need a hand, but if you’re doing it alone, bend carefully at the waist, leave your leg as straight as possible, and carefully pin the strap in place, making sure to catch the dance tights.
Once you have enough pins in very carefully remove your tights, slowly pull and push the bottom and top down your legs so your pins down poke you or fall out.
Then, very carefully sew the straps in place. You can take off the extra bottom bit on your sewing machine and literally just pull the legs onto it. Again, sew slowly, and carefully and stretch the tights/strap lightly while you sew.
Repeat this method for the two upper thigh straps.
Other ways to wear the thigh straps that are far less stressful:
-Sew special garter elastic on the underside.
-Use fashion or toupee tape each time you wear them.
-Go all out and literally make your tights- this usually requires buying specialty nylon fabric. It’s lightweight like dance tight material and there are usually a lot of flesh tone options in matte. So if you have a nice legging pattern that utilizes only an inside leg seam (and crotch seam) this allows you the chance to sew down the straps to the material before you even sew the legs closed. This is obviously a bit more extra work with extra money, materials, patterns and time needed. But it’s a usually fool proof way to sew down leg accouterments especially if you know you want to wear a flesh tone leg covering (dance tights) anyway.
Let’s take a breather after those frustrating steps and make some gloves! But let’s be honest; gloves are the worst. But at least Psylocke’s gloves are fingerless!
This method for gloves (and later boot covers) is probably not the most professional, but it’s easy and doesn’t require a pattern.
Simply lay the fabric right side up, fold it over so the wrong side is facing up and leave enough room for your arm and seams. Take some chalk, lay your arm down and trace! You might need someone to come help with tracing. Trace it up at least half an inch to an inch higher than where you want the top of the glove to hit your arm. Next use your chalk and a ruler to extend the seam out by at least quarter of an inch. No matter how stretchy the fabric is, it’s much easier and less stressful to have to take a glove in than to get through sewing it and find out it’s too tight to comfortably bend your arms.
Also leave plenty of fabric to sew down the sides of your hands/fingers, and around your thumb too, just to make sure the glove will hit the right part of your fingers when you eventually trim off excess and add elastic.
Once your glove fits properly, use your chalk to draw out the new edges like so. Cut small pieces of elastic, these were about 1.5” each. Pin the elastic in place like so, stitch and then hem off the rest of your gloves.
Lastly are the boots. There are many ways to go about making this easier on yourself, for example, just buying thigh-high boots in the color you want, or buying thigh-high boots in the fabric you want and using appropriate dyes or paints to color them. (Faux leather (pleather) boots might be hard to come by in a purple that matches your fabric, but in that case leather paint works wonders!)
These boots were made around a pair of old high heels (Recycling saves money!)
First, lay your fabric down right side up. This has only 1 back seam for this look so fold the fabric over to allow room for my leg and seams. Slip your shoe on, try to position your leg and foot so your toes are facing the fold in the fabric. Then trace the back only of your foot and leg, certainly ask for help for this if you can.
This looks ugly and crazy at first, but take your time with these next few steps, or ask for help, and don’t rush. This is a grat way to get a super awesome tight boots made! This method also only really works with 4-way stretch fabric, so warning, you will not be able to do this with non 4-way stretch, and you will need to add an invisible zipper up the back of your boot starting at the ankle and going up (7”-12” zippers work fine).
Cut and sew up the back seam so you have a weird tube shape to slip over your leg, take it in once really quick to make sure that the thigh part down to your lower calf fits the way you want it. Next, take a seat at the edge of a chair so your foot is flat and ankle is straight.
From the back, pull your fabric taut so that it properly lays against the top of your foot and the shoe and either pin first then trace with your chalk, or trace right away where your fingers pinch the bottom in between the foot and heel.. This can be really hard with just two hands, ask for help if you need it. Make sure you don’t pull too tightly around your ankle or you will have trouble pulling the boot on over your foot later!
You’re going to need to stitch down that new seam now, if you’re unsure if you got the chalk markings right simply take everything off and lay the shoe down on it’s side and correct your markings. Make sure everything fits by putting your shoe on and then slipping the boot cover over it carefully. Stretch the fabric over your shoe to get it into the proper place. Once the fabric sits right pull the fabric tight again and trace up the back of your leg to get rid of any extra loose fitting fabric. Again, make sure not to do this too tightly or you won’t be able to get your foot through it. Once it’s marked take everything off and sew the new seam.
You can use Shoe Goo for this next part, as it has amazing staying power.
Once the fabric is in the right place use your chalk to mark off where the edge of the bottom of your shoe is and take everything off. It appears easier to do this and then pin the fabric in place while it’s on your leg. While everything is off of you get your shoe back into place inside the boot cover and use your straight pins to hold the fabric in place a little above your line. Go all around the shoe until you’ve got something crazy looking like this.
Next cut some of the fabric so you can easily flip up the flaps to get to the bottom of your shoe.
For this tutorial, we used a clay molding tool to help with smearing the glue down onto the shoe. Do this all around the edge of the shoe in stages and then wrap some ties or elastic around the shoe so the glue has time to set. Allowing at least 24 hours between gluing stages. If you mess up a bit, don’t stress it. Peel up some parts, re-glue and cut away any extra fabric.
When the glue dries take a sharp exacto knife or box cutter and gently cut away the excess fabric from the bottom of the shoe. Now you can hem the tops! You can put your tights back on and then the boots and measure off where you want the hem.
Now you’re all done making your Psylocke cosplay! Buy the color purple wig you like, head out to a con with friends and be fierce!
If you’re looking to add a little more to your cosplay, or want to check out other X-Men and Marvel costumes, take a look at the costume selection offered by Costume SuperCenter! And be sure to follow Yuffie Bunny on Facebook, on Twitter, and on Instagram
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