Could there possibly be a better time than right now to re-boot the girl-power animated series of She-Ra? 2018 has turned out to be the year of the Woman and now you can add She-Ra to the list of modern day sheroes who fight in the name of good. Because this plastic toy from the 1980’s by Mattel has managed to maintain a fan base after over thirty years since the original show ended the series got a reboot that launched on Netflix Nov 13th, She-Ra and the Princesses of Power.
The show has evolved since the original spin-off from He-Man and the Masters of the Universe but many characters are coming back and we will meet many new characters. The glimpse we get in the trailer shows Princess Adora to be a fierce fighter before she even sets eyes on the Sword of Protection. We will be watching as Adora is chosen to lead the Rebellion of the Princesses of Power against the Evil Horde and has to decide between loyalty and what is right.
We asked Uncanny Megan to help create this She-Ra look in honor of the new Netflix series. Keep reading the step by step instructions below to see how to recreate this look.
I’ve never been a big She-Ra fan, but, as a girl with a similar build, the designs of Netflix’s new She-Ra and the Princesses of Power cartoon have been really inspiring to me. This is a tutorial following how I made my 2018 She-Ra costume!
I tried my hardest to hunt down links for everything used in this project! I bought most stuff in person at crafts stores and did a little online shopping on amazon and, of course, Costume SuperCenter.
There’s no need to use exactly what I did, I’ve just supplied the links to help get a better idea of what helped put together my costume. Feel free to elaborate!!
Here is the list of supplies I used:
I started this project by drawing up a pattern. Using McCall’s M7269 pattern, I drew up some new pieces that fit my idea of She-Ra on newspaper. I knew my fabric of choice wasn’t going to have as much stretch as the McCall’s pattern calls for, so I didn’t draw up the gold pieces as I planned on using them for extra space.
After all my new pattern pieces were drawn up, I cut them out and began pinning them down to my main white fabric, with the stretch of the fabric pulling horizontal to the pattern pieces.
Once these pieces had been pinned and cut out, I repeated these pieces with my plain white spandex, to be used as a lining. Adding lining is not necessary, but since my main fabric was particularly sheer, I chose to double up the layers!
My next step was adding cutting the gold trim! Using my gold spandex, I measured out the width I wanted and cut four long strips. (One for the center front, one for the mid-section, two for the legs)
To be able to add my center gold stripe to the top of my costume, I first needed to sew together the sides pieces and she shoulder pieces of both the outside and the lining.
For sewing stretch materials, I zig-zag stitch is required so the fabric can continue to stretch when worn! You’ll notice in my photos that, along with my zig-zag stitch, I also have stitching from a serger. A serger is NOT required, but doesn’t hurt if you already have one.
Afterwards, I placed the sewn lining piece inside of the sewn outer piece, pinned one of the golden strips to the center, and sewed it into place.
Next I started pinning my second gold piece to the bottom of the top piece.
When I got to the center point, I flipped my ends together and pinned them to where the seam line was even with the point of the top.
I sewed them in place, and then sewed the rest into place.
Next, I sewed my pants pieces together at the crotch and inner legs, but not the sides. I did this with both the main portion, and the lining.
Just like with the center stripe, I put the two pieces together and sewed the two new stripes into place.
To finish off my pant legs, I cut out two rectangles, double the width of what I wanted, folded them in half, and sewed them around the bottom of each leg. Attaching my sides the same way I did with the gold trim at the bottom of the top piece.
Next, it was time for the skirt piece! Using a basic circle skirt pattern, I cut out a piece in my main white fabric, as well as my gold. I wasn’t originally planning on lining this piece in gold, but I had enough fabric left over and figured it would accent the costume well.
After a little bit of playing around and cutting, I found a shape I really liked and sewed my two pieces together, right-side in around the bottom and the opening slit.
Afterwards, I flipped the piece right-side out and very loosely sewed the top parts together using a straight stitch, WITHOUT backstitching, so I would be able to gather it.
To gather, I took the end part of the thread, and carefully pulled and tugged until I got the top of my skirt to where I wanted it.
Next, I sewed my skirt to my shorts and then sewed my skirt and shorts combination (my skort?) to the top of my costume!
Then it was time for the collar, which I could have done at any time, but typically like to do right before I add the zipper. For this, I drew up two rectangles and curved one edge. Then, using another, shorter, gold strip, I added the detailing.
I pinned the bottom to the uncurved part of the collar and then carefully cut down the center and pinned each side to its respective side of the collar piece.
After that was sewn into place, I cut out a piece of my lining material to the shape and size of my new collar piece and sewed them together, right-side in.
Once the collar piece was finished, I sewed it onto my costume, lining the gold stripes up together.
Once the collar was fully attached, a zipper could be sewn in! I’m not really sure why I chose an invisible zipper since it will be covered with a cape and I didn’t sew it in to be invisible anyway, but it does look nice.
Finally, it was time for the shoulder pieces and sleeve holes. Depending on the type of costume, I usually leave the sleeves for last because I just really dislike doing them.
For my shoulder pieces, I cut two triangles out of stiff interfacing and then cut out four matching pieces out of my gold fabric.
Once I had all my pieces cut out, I pinned two gold pieces right-side in with a piece of interfacing on top and sewed them together, leaving the bottom open. Flip right-side out. Repeat.
I then folded my sleeve holes over at the edges and pinned them down. Once I’d figured out where my hem would be, I added the new shoulder pads to the inside of the sleeve and sewed everything together.
The last bit of sewing was the cape! Using two yards of fabric, I folded the entire piece and half, right side in, and sewed it completely together, leaving only a small gap to be able to pull the costume back right side out.
I then sat and hand stitched some pleats into place to make it a little thinner at the top and also add some dimension.
To attach the cape to the rest of the costume, I hand sewed some snaps to the back of the shoulders and the insides of the cape corners!
Now that all the sewing was done, it was time to move onto all the armor pieces! First up, the chest emblem!
I put and image of the 2018 She-Ra in Photoshop and blew up her chest to get a basic outline of her emblem. I printed it out as large as I could and cut it out to be used as a pattern piece.
Since none of the pictures I could find were very symmetrical, I cut my new pattern in half and only used one side to make my foam piece. I drew this piece on 3mm craft foam so it wouldn’t be super thin, but also wouldn’t be super thick.
Continuing on with my 3mm foam, I drew up my arm pieces. I didn’t want to make a gauntlet that went all the way around the arm because it’s usually not very comfortable, so I drew pieces that would later be attached with elastic.
For the head-wings, I used 5mm foam. I was using what I had on hand and would later regret that all my pieces weren’t on that tan foam.
I just drew up a shape that I found fit and then traced it onto the other piece!
For the designs in her head-wings, I scored them by using an X-acto knife to trace the outline I had drawn and then holding them over the stove. I recommend that you do this with a heat gun or a hair-dryer for safety.
I wasn’t exactly sure how I was going to make these pieces yet, so in the end, I didn’t end up using the scoring as I had originally planned (So really, if you’re following this, you don’t need to do it at all).
To seal all my foam pieces, I took them outside and sprayed them with two coats of Plasti-Dip. Sealing can be done with a few different products, but I went with Plasti-Dip to keep the flexibility.
Once the Plasti-Dip was dry, I began painting everything with a glitter leather paint. I hadn’t originally planned on using this type of paint, so I was unprepared when cutting my pieces. Earlier, when I said I would want all my pieces to be tan, this is why. Alternatively, a glitter foam sheet could have also cut time down, but since I was also going to be using this paint on my boots, it helped that everything matched.
Next, I used a glitter puff paint to add some details to my gauntlets and head-wings. I used this paint to outline the edge of my gauntlets to add definition and to draw on the designs in the wings. The scoring actually did come in handy as a guide for the nozzle, but was ultimately unneeded.
Since the back of the head-wings would also be slightly visible, I coated them in gold spray paint and then added a few coats of a scattered glitter acrylic paint.
Like I said above, this paint was also to be used on the boots! I opted to not make 100% accurate boots for She-Ra so they could be a little more versatile for use with other costumes in the future, while still looking like they belonged to this costume.
Using three coats of paint, I coated the toes and the tops of the boots.
Then, to make them have a pearlescent sheen to match the costume itself, I coated them in a coat of gold metalizer Plasti-Dip and a second coat of normal metalizer Plasti-Dip. It doesn’t photograph as well as it looks in real life, but it’s honestly gorgeous.
Now that all my paint had dried, it was time to do the finishing touches! First, I added elastic to the gauntlets. I cut out six pieces and hot glued them into place.
For the headpiece, I took a long piece of wire, bent the V shape into it, and glued the wings down.
To close the back up, I twisted the ends of the wire together after measuring the size of my head.
To finish off the chest piece, I added a blue jewel!
And then, with the help of another person and a layer of clothing in between myself and the costume, hot glued the emblem to my chest while wearing it. (I can’t stress enough to have multiple layers in between!! You DO NOT want to burn yourself) This assured that the costume was stretched to the right dimensions when the emblem was added.
And lastly, I glued a red jewel to a bobby pin.
All that’s left at this point is the wig, which is completely up to you! And lucky for us, Costume SuperCenter has a huge selection of blonde wigs to choose from.
I hope you found this tutorial helpful in making your very own Netflix She-Ra! And remember, this is just what I did, so feel free to change things up to suit what appeals to you!